10 May MEMADE: Pearl Closet Case Patterns Kalle Cropped Shirt
This is my first Closet Case Patterns review. I’ve been sewing for a little while now and it was time to make a shirt. Looking at my closet, everything is patterned! There’s nothing wrong with patterns, I love patterns (just look at my trousers), it’s just I thought it was time for me to make a plain shirt now that my sewing skills have improved. I’ve been eyeing on the Kalle since it came out last year and they have a very detailed sewalong so I thought this is perfect for this project.
Fabric & Haberdashery
I rated the fabric 4.5 stars is because it does creases. Might get a cotton blend next time as I’m just too lazy to iron.
Pattern & Fit
There are many shirt patterns out there but I wanted to sew a Kalle since the pattern came out last year. What I love about this pattern is the versatility of it – View A is cropped shirt, View B is a tunic, View C is a dress with standard collar or band collar, with an optional breast pocket, an inverted or box pleat, and button, popover or hidden placket. You can personalise your own version!
Here, I made View A, the cropped shirt in size 10, with inverted pleat at the back, regular button placket and standard collar. I omitted the breast pocket on this occasion.
The fit was perfect. After reading the sewalong post, even though I have big bust, I didn’t need to perform any full bust adjustment as this pattern gives enough ease and it has no darts. I went with one of Heather’s advice and based on my upper bust measurement to determine my size.
Construction and Alterations
The only alteration I did was to add an inch to the front only as I didn’t want it to be too cropped.
The Closet Case Patterns Kalle sewalong is a treat! The sewalong really helped me to determine what size to make for this and all the other tips and tricks along the way.
This was a joy to sew! The instruction was very clear, they use the burrito method for the yoke (which I’ve done once in making Reeta Dress from Named Clothing). I used their “easy way” for the collar as per instruction, on their website there’s also a post on standard way for all the traditionalists. Also, on their website there’s a brilliant tutorial on making the sharpest collar point. I used the tweezer method for mine because I had a pair handy at the time. The thread tail method looks brilliant, will have to try that next time.
Lessons & Techniques Learned
The curved face hem isn’t as sharp as I hoped, wasn’t sure if it was because I’ve extended the length? But I have moved the markings by 1″ as well. Here are some techniques I’ve learned from this project:
- How to make really sharp collar points
- Sewing collar the easy way
I love my Kalle cropped shirt! I’m definitely planning on making the tunic and the dress version. Stay tuned!
What’s your favourite shirt pattern? Do you always make from patterned fabric or do you prefer to make from plain fabric?